So you have
finally bought that acreage in the country or grown your horse herd to
the point of needing or wanting to build a new barn. Barn buiilding is a
learning process. So before you get too set on your ideas about your
“dream barn” you need to do some research. This article is intended as a
first step in that process and admittedly serves to point out the
obvious and covers only the barest of basics.
Research
There are a number of books on barn building and design that are a must
read before talking with a contractor or considering doing the job
yourself. Do a google.com search and browse Amazon.com its all there.
Unless you are an experienced builder with access to heavy equipment and
skilled labor, contracting the job yourself is almost always a bad
decision. It will not save you money, in fact it will probably cost you
more in the long run. Building a barn is an awful lot of work and you
will have to live with your mistakes for a long time!. Trust me, bid out
the job to a reputable company that specializes in barns and outdoor
buildings-- that guarantees the work, the materials and that completes
the job on time. Ask for references, then go see the barns and talk to
the owners. Ask about the person’s experiences and satisfaction with the
builder and look at their barn very carefully for worksmanship and
design. Ask the owner what he/she likes/dislikes about the barn and what
they wish could be different, or what they would do differently next
time. Take notes and the time to visit several finished products built
by the company(ies) you are considering..
Type and
Style
Ok, so assuming you have an idea of the type of barn i.e. probably post
and beam or pole barn; and what style barn you want e.g. Gambrel, Dutch,
Monitor etc., and some preconceived notions on size and cost---start
putting the pencil on paper for your floor plan. Keep in mind, that you
will always find a use for more square footage in the future than you
will have envisioned. Do you want to store hay - square or round bale--
ground level, two story or loft? Side wall heights of 10’ 12’ 14’ or
greater will need consideration. Do you need interior walls for a tack
room, office, wash rack, breeding area? Do you want an inside arena? …
it goes on and on. The only limit is your imagination and finances.
Measure twice, cut once
One thing for certain, to have to go back and add on addtionals “bays”
to a barn after it has been built, is considerable more expense than
building the right sized facility in the first place. So plan for the
optimal size you can possibly afford…and then go bigger! You need 12’ x
12’ box stalls, don’t be tempted for cheaper and smaller 10’x10’s.
Stalls must be across from each other or side by side with bars in the
dividing walls. Stalled horses have to see other horses when stalled or
they can develop neurotic behaviors. So, for breeding stallions or mares
due to foal that are not daily turn outs, a 12 x 24 (double) stall is
recommended for greater freedom of movement. This double stall option
can be fashioned with removable dividing wall inserts as needed. You
will not regret a 14 -16 ft. wide work aisle. So the number and
postioning of your stalls, work and storage areas will dictate the
width, length and height of your barn. Suggestion: Price your barn with
and without the stalls included, build a big enough building to leave
room for future stall additions or holding pens as may be needed or
finances allow.
Site location, site drainage, site preparation
You should choose a location that is, or will be, all weather accessible
via a good rocked road with ample turn around space in front, behind or
around it to handle a large truck and trailer rig. You may not think
you’ll ever have need for a semi-trailer to come to your barn, but,
think again, your builder is not going to deliver roof trusses in a mini
van! And, a big truck with a 20 ft gooseneck trailer is a likely given
at some point in your barn’s future..
Your barn building site must be raised level grade, not located in a
flood plain or low area that would invite rain runoff or snowmelt to
enter your barn. Conversely, if you plan to have running water and
something other than a dirt floor in the barn you need to plan drainage
so that waste water can leave your barn.
There are a number of options for drainage, the most basic is a a field
tile floor drain that can tie into a gutter downspout tile that runs
waste water away from the barn. Also pretty basic is a gravity fed
french drain ditch about two feet wide that runs downhill 3 to 4 feet
deep and is filled with wash rock laid over a septic field tile system.
Once the barn is up and stalls are in you install one of several urine
permeable stall flooring systems topped with bedding.
If you are planning for an office, lab, or living quarters with a
bathroom, you will need to plan for plumbing, electrical service and a
full septic system with enough surrounding acreage for laterils. In
temperate climates, as you dig your trenches below the frost line for
water pipes, consider laying underground wiring (in the same trench), If
you plan for automatic stall waterers, bury your water line and electric
line to prevent freezing. Plan for electrical outlets on the exterior
stall fronts. Have a large enough electrical service installed to
accommodate lighting or lighting upgrades later on if needed. Your stall
drainage system can feed to the septic tank- no need for two systems,
but remember you still must run your downspout gutter rain water away
from the barn with field tiles.
Will your barn have a concrete floor? If so, all the plumbing and
underground wiring need to be stubbed in or roughed in prior to pouring.
You will need a 4 inch crushed road rock bed, wire or ribar and visqueen
vapor barrier as an underlay to keep a 4 inch slab of concrete from
floating or cracking. This must be decided prior to your site gradient
work to compensate for the 4 inch rockbed and the 4 inches of concrete
that will be poured after the building is erected.
Orientation and postioning of your building before preparing the
building site is important to consider. Will you have sliding doors on
both ends of the building to allow you to drive a truck or tractor
through the building? You will be glad if you do. If you are in a
Northern or temperate climate, will you place a side wall to the North
wind? If you are in a Southern, arid desert or semi tropical climate,
will you face your barn East-West to have the sun’s hottest rays off
your uninsulated side walls?
Ventilation
Barns and horses need air ventilation-- either natural or mechanical.
Roof ridge vents, overhanging roofs and eves with ventilated soffits
allow air to enter and exit a closed barn. An auxilary exhuast fan in a
cupoloa can move stale air out and draw fresh air in during hot or cold
months to help keep your horses comfortable or keep odors at bay.
Functional dutch doors and windows that can be opened can also give
needed natural ventilation. Opening doors on both ends of your barn to
form a breeze way gives great air flow and allows the building to stay
cooler during the heat of summer. In the winter, with doors closed, an
insultated ceiling with ridge or soffit ventilation are a must for
stalled horses. Their respiration and waste will create
moisture/humidity that will condense on the inside of an un-insultated
metal roof and either freeze or drip. This type of situation can lead to
respiratory illness, colds and fevers.
Conclusion
There are many things to consider before building a new barn. Probably
the most important aspect is the choice of a building contractor.
Location and ease of access are critical for a convenient and functional
facility . Proximity to good access all weather roads with a barn road
entrance and exit or turn around is a key consideration. Site
preparation, drainage, utilities and other services to the building need
pre-planning and in most instances pre- preparation or installation
before the actual barn building begins.
Basic features for horse health and safety must take priority over other
amenities. It is hoped that this article either provides you with new
information and insight to consider when building a barn or validates
some of your assumptions or thinking on the subject. Best of luck! I
hope you build that nice, big dream barn you have always yearned for;
and may you always have the means to pay for it and the good health to
enjoy it.